Seattle, With Great Expectations

Woke up early and started for Seattle. The terrain looks like eastern Montana, not what we would have expected. Except for the bodies of water dotting the view between dry, rolling prairie, it seemed familiar.. We hit 3000 miles at Moses Lake in Washington state, 12:501 pm. That's more than half way, but still half again as many to go or more. Camille is doing an excellent job of driving.

Passed over the Columbia River at 4:24 mst. Had an interesting fountain I was unable to capture so quickly, then saw a glimpse of the did farm off in the distance and found that is is just one of many. 

Coming from a state whose highways are heavily patrolled, having a 70 mph speed limit and having people drive under it is hard to comprehend, sometimes. Why wouldn't you go faster if you could????

We ended up getting into Seattle in late afternoon. Fabulously sunny day, so we had plenty of time to check into The Green Tortoise Hostel before heading for dinner.

The Green Tortoise is located across the street from Pike's Place Market, very convenient and central to going other places. We had one roomy, from Australia, on her way by ferry to Alaska. It had not occurred to either of us how easy it would be to do from Seattle, until Allyson mentioned it.

The very cool thing about the bed set up was the privacy curtains that surrounded each bed. Inside each little fabric cave were 4 outlets, a light and a fan very handy with ope windows and no a/c. The open window let in street noise that was easily drowned out by the fan. Of course, one would have to like unnatural wind to use the fan. There were also under bunk lockers for storing our things while we were away. The bathrooms were located across the hall, so convenient. One just had to remember to bring the room key wherever you went or you would be locked out of your room and have to wake someone up to get back to bed. The idea of being stranded in the hallway in pajamas, very motivating to remember. They even had a wheel chair accessible bathroom. Not sure how you would get into the hostel considering it is on the second floor with no elevator... ????

After settling in we headed out to Agua Verde Cafe and Paddle Club, near Univ of Wash, (which my smart phone gps pronounced phonetically Uni-i-v of Wa-a-sh, very funny). Being real foodies, it was Camille's mission to find places to eat food that would tickle our gastronomic crazy bones. And what better place to go than one situated on Portage Bay AND presented the opportunity to paddle before or after imbibing in margaritas? We got great advice to NEVER try those standing paddle boats, basically a surf board and a long canoe paddle. They are, according to our adviser, an extreme ab workout, requiring great balance to remain dry, something our tipster was not able to do. We didn't check out his abs or the boats. But still, if we were there longer, possibly. That is the one thing about this kind of trip, not enough time in each place.

Our food, for the most part, was a nice balance between heat and flavor, very fresh, too. The vegetable empanadas were light, with al dente vegetables and a perfectly done corn layer wrapped around them. BUT, the chicken torta was soooo spicy, we had to wait to take a next bite, to be able to finally taste it. Though I understand many people like that kind of heat, I liken it to eating fire, voluntarily. Not my kind of torture.

The evening was young so we headed back to the hostel and walked around the harbor area, stopping in at the Alibi Room.  We had interesting conversations with two young service men on leave recently reassigned to the Seattle area. They were in the intelligence unit of the US army so lots of topics were taboo. Jeff had gradated from Ohio State and enlisted to pay off his school loans as well as offer something back for all our country does. One thing came through very clearly, to do what they do requires much sacrifice, something they feel is overshadowed by the image of servicemen as uneducated or worse. By New Years, they will be in Afghanistan, and as a mother, it is frightening to think about what our young service men and women will experience, and also more than impressive that they're willing to be there. Bless them and keep them safe for their real mothers as well.

Next stop was a place called The Bookstore. Felt like we were having dessert in an old family library. It is part of the Alexis Hotel. We shared a Pot de Creme, which is basically a very dense, chocolate mousse.

Walking around Seattle is full of surprises. Like the wall in Post Alley full of bubble gum. It reminded both of us of the path on Stone Mountain with some of the same plastered on opposing rocks the path squeezes through. You can hear about it, but you have to be there, see it and smell the melange all puttied together in globs and strings.

The other thought that occurred to us is WHO started it and how did it catch on? Obviously the answer lies on the internet, right? Everyone knows that where to look for the real story. Turns out it is the wall of outside Market Theatre and patrons have been putting  it on there since 1993. Supposedly, it has been cleaned off numerous times to finally be left to grow and has it ever. Parts of it have to be inches thick. If we believe everything on the internet, then it has also been voted as one of the worlds germiest attractions. Would you believe there is also one in San Luis Obispo????? Google that and read about it.

Kootenai

Broke camp at Fish Creek by 9 am, dived into the hard boiled eggs we cooked up 2 days back, got some coffee at McDonald Lodge and did some art making along McDonald Lake.


Have noticed that locals are so open minded that they can't give a straight answer to a simple question: When asking another park ranger which hike was her favorite and that she would recommend she responded. "I hate that question, each hike I do becomes my next favorite." Completely missing the point of the question. Go figure. Tried it again with another ranger and got a varying degree of the same. Hmmmm. Art making it is, who needs another hike?

We checked out of Glacier a day earlier and headed to Spokane, WA so we would get to Seattle earlier to have more than a day and night.

One thing we wanted to try was buffalo and elk jerky. Seemed like a good idea since we were in their territory and those who raised or hunted them would know the best ways to cure them. Mentioned it at just the right moment in a quick stop market to get the directions to The Perfect Cut, a local butcher that specializes in cured meats of all kindsj without using all kinds of things to preserve it. Turns out he was right. We tried straight elk that was soooo peppered I though my tongue was peeling. Had to wait awhile to be able to even taste the others. The regular buffalo and the teriyaki buffalo were both very tasty.

Stopped on the spur of the moment at Kootenai National Forest to see Kootenai Falls and Swinging Bridge along the way. We thought it would be just off the road, a drive by stop. After about a 15 minute walk we were committed and continued on. Glad we did. Kootenai Falls is the largest undammed falls in the state with a Native American history as a sacred gathering site. It was considered the center of the world. Such a raw and striking spot. Raw in the sense that the path was not improved beyond the initial paved by bumpy roadway. Felt like I was drunk walking on it. Each step was a different level and incline. There were no handrails, warning signs or indications of exactly where the path goes other than by the worn areas. At some points we went astray on our way back, but were not really lost, just in brambles, maybe an animal path. The river, at the top of the falls, was at least half a dozen levels that seemed to span completely across the river on somewhat diagonally. 

Camille is sitting at the top of the falls a few feet from the edge, but it's hard to gain perspective at this level. The rock it tumbles over, also extends across the shore areas and is filled with layers of fossilized vegetation and small ripples like those found along shores of shallow sandy beaches. 

The Swinging Bridge, further down river, is not for those afraid of heights. It is suspended on metal cables criss crossed with wood slats underneath and a 3 plank wide walk area across the top. The Kootenai River, which also goes over the falls rushes underneath 80' +/- below. A beautiful sunny day, the wind was really zooming down the canyon walls when we walked a crossed it. Access to the shore areas along the river can be reached not far from the other side.

Passed through a number of small towns, one being Libby, MT. A huge welded eagle soars above the small community. We found other smaller versions of it scattered along our drive through. Further investigation tells a story of family connections. The eagle was made by the local art teacher, and the mayor took a shine to it and purchased it and others. Turns out the mayor was the artists brother. Just proves that it's not always what you know, but who you know too! Libby is known now as the City of Eagles.

While looking up be sure to see the Chevy coming in for a landing over Dairy Queen.

Pulled into Fairfield Inn Spokane, WA just before dinner time. There is nothing like a good bed, especially a Marriott bed, after 8 days of camping. The shower was delicious, if that is even possible.

Spokane is pretty small, and we only used it as a way stop. But no harm in exploring the gastronomy of the area. Found some highly recommended restaurants to choose from and settled on Zolas. Rustic interior and more contemporary food than we first thought we'd find. Salmon sliders on focacia with an olive tapenade and aoli. The fries were lightly dusted in something before being through into the fryer because they had a light crunch, herb season as well. The bartender made me a margarita with fresh lime and Camille had a mirobrewed beer from the area. All very tasty.

Glatiated

What a start to the day. Our first night of camping at Glacier was surprisingly comfortable compared to the freezing temperatures at Yellowstone, 300 miles south. Yogurt parfaits are still tasting great for breakfast. Information about Glacier hikes is scarce other than where they are, the distance and elevation changes. We decided to talk to the RaAanger on our way out. Had a slightly amusing conversation with an overly cheery park ranger at Fishcreek Campgrounds. He had an uncanny resemblance to Buzz Lightyear from Toy Story. RaAanger Buzz, who could be the poster child for National Parks PR, gave us some advice about swimming, "If you jump in at Apgar Pier, you won't immediately go into cardiac arrest. The water temperature hovers around 50 degrees, but because of the sun, Apgar is slightly warmer. Of course I shouldn't be telling you this because there are signs posted not to go swimming off the pier". It was a genuinely unique but cheery start to the day. Swimming was definitely out.

Relying on electronica has it's limitations. We stopped in at Eddies Restaurant in Apgar Village to charge cell phones and get a cup of coffee while we waited. Of course we had to have breakfast and split eggs, hash browns and thick cut bacon. It all sat well with the yogurt parfait we had at the campgrounds. 

Took a drive to Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun Road. Except for the roadwork, which had us stop at multiple points, it was interesting driving up steep switchbacks, with sweeping views of giant mountains just over the very narrow shoulder. The road actually hung off in some places, cantilevering off the mountain. It is understandable the need for road repair after seeing evidence of avalanches, with snapped off trees at peculiar heights and a tangle of them and other mountain debris partially down the slopes. There was a good view of the 50,000+ acres fire storm that hit Glacier in 2003. Going to the Sun Run Road is aptly name, based on the whining Compass was doing. But she had no problems going down. It's amazing how many people don't know how to use low gear going down long, steep grades, the smell of hot brakes was in the air, often, but not from us.

Meandered around McDonald Lodge, bought some interesting jewelry and browsed the tourist trinkets. Then headed to McDonald Creek Falls, for some art making. No one would believe the color of the water, if we would't put pictures up to prove it. The deepest teal, maybe cerulean…. look at the pictures. So much water pours through some narrow passages, it reminds me of the Hydraulics in Smoky Mountains. Definitely not going down these.

A good deal of the late afternoon was spent trying to get wifi. We learned that the sign on the map for Fishcreek Campgrounds was not for wifi, but in fact for an amphitheater. Could it be that the sign designer is unaware of what a wifi marker looks like?????  Nooo, couldn't be. Finally got a signal at West Glacier, a small town out of the west entrance to the park, and took care of some business.

Dinner was chili and rice, this time with sharp cheddar. Ah, to die for. With our stowaway gone, we had no newspapers to start the evening fire. Camille did a great job figuring it all out, and we roasted what appears to be our last marshmallows of the trip. There is a technique for roasting the perfect marshmallow. Close to the embers, rotating slowly, so the insides have a chance to melt. When the marshmallow expands and threatens to fall off, you know you've reached marshmallow nirvana. Eat carefully, it will be hot.

Stowaway Heads Home

Today was the day the Stowaway headed home. Everything was fully pre-packed the night before to make sure it all fit into the two bags he brought. All up, showered, Camille was caffeined up and all done with breakfast  by 9:15 am. A few mis-starts later we managed to get to the airport by 9:40, for a 10:35 am flight. Smooth sailing so far, smiles all around for the nervous passenger, who's fear of heights is exponentially magnified for flying. Smooth is good. We cut it a little close by arriving a few minutes less than the hour recommended for check-in. Turns out, we were really, REALLY early, like a month early. Smiles slid south, and after many big gulps, the wrinkles were ironed out and he was able to snag the last seat out of Bozeman on the later 3:30 pm flight. As it turned out, it was helpful to us because Mike finished up our laundry, (what a Renaissance man!), while we worked on the next part of our trip without him.

Stopped at Bozeman Camera, our third attempt to try and pick up a cord for charging Camille's camera and getting pictures off for this blog. Everyone is so friendly and helpful.  Didn't get a chord, but was able to buy a used card reader and get pointed to a great BBQ for lunch, Bar 3. Best BBQ and fries we both have ever had. Read more on the Eats, Treats and Gastronomy page.

The drive north to Glacier was I 90 W  >  Hwy 12 E  >  Hwy 141 N  >  Hwy 200 N  >  Hwy 83 N  >  Hwy 35  >  Hwy 206 into the West Glacier entrance. Wide open spaces between low-lying mountains on either side made for a beautiful drive between blues, purples, a spectrum of gold through green. Lots of horses, cows, and sheep. Sooooo much open space, mile after mile, very different than flying over it.

The forecast for Glacier was for mid 90s as the highs and upper 40s to mid 60s for the lows. Stiff winds though, 15-25 mph with gusts of 35. Staking down the tents was an imperative. A darn sight warmer at night then Yellowstone. Unlike Yellowstone, where signage was numerous, we got our first indication that we were nearing Glacier 139 miles away from it. Our second sign came 46 miles away from it. Must be saving on road signs because there are so few roads to turn onto anyway. Oh the comfort of  signs! Unless I was looking for a different kind of sign.

The smell of pine greeted us as we enter Seeley Lake and past the logging mill, entering Lolo National Forest. We arrived at Glacier just before sunset. Loooong ride and we were so happy to finally be there. By the time we got there, the rangers had left and posted our campsite info on at the check in gate. Fish Creek Campgrounds is located along the shores of McDonald Lake. Situated in dense forest, it allows for privacy, even with smaller sites like ours. The difference between the National Parks campsites and the private ones like Horsethief in SD, is that the sites are really established, not evolving, so it's very beautiful to drive into it. The bathrooms are more rustic, with no showers available at Fish Creek.

 

 The signs posted at each campsite, the bathrooms and check points about controlling bear activity are fairly stringent and intimidating. The rules are so closely followed that even the small animals that seem to scamper around other campgrounds looking for human handouts dine elsewhere. We skipped dinner anyway, after such a large lunch from Bar 3 BBQ.

It was definitely a windy night at the tops of the trees. Down at our level, it was the constant dropping of dislodged tree debris hitting the tents and rolling down, that made for a very noisy first night. Not to mention, the warm night time temperatures, the first of the summer. 

West Thumb Geiser Basin

Last night we faired better. Believe it or not a sheet over the sleeping bag kept the heat in and the cold out of the openings at the head of the bag. We also let the awning down over the screen windows, trapping the warm air. The condensation that collected between the tent layers was tremendous. The moisture of two breathing bodies in an 8' x 5' x 4' domed tent, that's about  80 cubic feet at the most, was surprising. Up and out, with breakfast included, by 9 am was a great start to the day. 

First stop was West Thumb Gieser Basin. Gorgeous, bizarre, intriguing with the lake and mountains as a backdrop. There are many different types of thermal activity there, but some more memorable. The Abyss Pool looked bottomless with a temp of around 170 F and the Black Pool named in the 1950s, which is now cerulean blue, the rising temp, killing the bacteria that colored it black. Many beautiful colors of water, rock and sand due to the runoff.

Around every bend seems to be something spectacular to see. A traffic jam had us pulled off the side of the road close enough to a bull elk to hear the clump of leaves snap and teeth crunch his morning meal. It crossed the road right in front of us, parting traffic like Moses, checking out the new growth in the aftermath of forest fires of recent past seasons. The fuzz on it's antlers glowed in the rising sun.

Today we also saw a heard of bison and black wolf. At this point though, after 3 days of camping and no electrical outlets, all our picture making devices were out of commission to capture either. Can anymore info fit into my brain, committing it to memory…..maybe.

The Big Thaw

Late, late, late night ride into Yellowstone. We pitched our tents after midnight. Chilly enterprise. We were sure that once we got all covered up, deep, restful sleep would await us. NOT so. Woke up numerous times, unable to feel our extremities, that is when we were able to sleep. I wondered if Camille had frozen to death. We will wear our entire suitcase worth of clothes from here on out, and a hat to bed as well.

Fabulous day at Yellowstone. Had to wait till the sun came up fully to thaw out, giving us a late start to the day. It was glorious relaxing all closed up in the tent, sun heating it and me up, quiet air inside it. Outside was still breezy and chilly in the shadows. 

On our way to Old Faithful we stopped briefly at Keplar Cascades.

Old Faithful took her good old time, but eventually  blew at around 3:15 pm. It was really relaxing to fill the waiting time with drawing. We hit Black Sands Basin which is full of boiling hot pots. At 6 pm we were treated to views of buffalo, elk and coyotes feeding and/or frolicking in the prairie grasses. A clue to see the wildlife is the cluster of cars pulled over on the side of the road. A grizzly bear had quite a crowd watching it eat as we were making our way back to the camp.

America, regardless of ones political leanings, is a land of universally wondrous resources as witnessed by the numerous languages that could be heard as we moved and mingled with the crowds. The results of forest fires from the late 80s is still evident in the landscaping.

The hot pools of water have so many different colors to them. It was interesting to find out that it is because of the bacteria they host. When the temperature of a pool rises or falls, bacteria can be killed off and a different strain grow, changing the color of the pools. This one is called the Abyss. It is too deep to see the bottom, at least where the picture was taken from, but a beautiful color of blue.