Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Kootenai

Broke camp at Fish Creek by 9 am, dived into the hard boiled eggs we cooked up 2 days back, got some coffee at McDonald Lodge and did some art making along McDonald Lake.


Have noticed that locals are so open minded that they can't give a straight answer to a simple question: When asking another park ranger which hike was her favorite and that she would recommend she responded. "I hate that question, each hike I do becomes my next favorite." Completely missing the point of the question. Go figure. Tried it again with another ranger and got a varying degree of the same. Hmmmm. Art making it is, who needs another hike?


We checked out of Glacier a day earlier and headed to Spokane, WA so we would get to Seattle earlier to have more than a day and night.

One thing we wanted to try was buffalo and elk jerky. Seemed like a good idea since we were in their territory and those who raised or hunted them would know the best ways to cure them. Mentioned it at just the right moment in a quick stop market to get the directions to The Perfect Cut, a local butcher that specializes in cured meats of all kindsj without using all kinds of things to preserve it. Turns out he was right. We tried straight elk that was soooo peppered I though my tongue was peeling. Had to wait awhile to be able to even taste the others. The regular buffalo and the teriyaki buffalo were both very tasty.






Stopped on the spur of the moment at Kootenai National Forest to see Kootenai Falls and Swinging Bridge along the way. We thought it would be just off the road, a drive by stop. After about a 15 minute walk we were committed and continued on. Glad we did. Kootenai Falls is the largest undammed falls in the state with a Native American history as a sacred gathering site. It was considered the center of the world. Such a raw and striking spot. Raw in the sense that the path was not improved beyond the initial paved by bumpy roadway. Felt like I was drunk walking on it. Each step was a different level and incline. There were no handrails, warning signs or indications of exactly where the path goes other than by the worn areas. At some points we went astray on our way back, but were not really lost, just in brambles, maybe an animal path. The river, at the top of the falls, was at least half a dozen levels that seemed to span completely across the river on somewhat diagonally. 

Camille is sitting at the top of the falls a few feet from the edge, but it's hard to gain perspective at this level. The rock it tumbles over, also extends across the shore areas and is filled with layers of fossilized vegetation and small ripples like those found along shores of shallow sandy beaches. 





The Swinging Bridge, further down river, is not for those afraid of heights. It is suspended on metal cables criss crossed with wood slats underneath and a 3 plank wide walk area across the top. The Kootenai River, which also goes over the falls rushes underneath 80' +/- below. A beautiful sunny day, the wind was really zooming down the canyon walls when we walked a crossed it. Access to the shore areas along the river can be reached not far from the other side.


Passed through a number of small towns, one being Libby, MT. A huge welded eagle soars above the small community. We found other smaller versions of it scattered along our drive through. Further investigation tells a story of family connections. The eagle was made by the local art teacher, and the mayor took a shine to it and purchased it and others. Turns out the mayor was the artists brother. Just proves that it's not always what you know, but who you know too! Libby is known now as the City of Eagles.


While looking up be sure to see the Chevy coming in for a landing over Dairy Queen.


Pulled into Fairfield Inn Spokane, WA just before dinner time. There is nothing like a good bed, especially a Marriott bed, after 8 days of camping. The shower was delicious, if that is even possible.

Spokane is pretty small, and we only used it as a way stop. But no harm in exploring the gastronomy of the area. Found some highly recommended restaurants to choose from and settled on Zolas. Rustic interior and more contemporary food than we first thought we'd find. Salmon sliders on focacia with an olive tapenade and aoli. The fries were lightly dusted in something before being through into the fryer because they had a light crunch, herb season as well. The bartender made me a margarita with fresh lime and Camille had a mirobrewed beer from the area. All very tasty.



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