Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Saluting History, Slowing Down

Cafe Franco serves organic food and free breakfast.The day began with me realizing after a night on the town, I was missing my FREE breakfast tickets.By this point in the trip anything free is good. Upon check-in at the hostel we both got 2 tickets, one for each morning of our stay. Trying to avoid carrying a purse, I stuffed things into my cargo pockets of my capris. Well, at least I didn't loose my purse somewhere. Camille shared her other breakfast ticket and I was on the hook to spring for breakfast tomorrow. After going through the Hostel Cafe line, missing tomorrows would be no great loss. As nice as it was to stay a short walk away from Fisherman's Wharf, in one of the most storied areas in San Francisco, hostel breakfasts are meager affairs, especially when they are free. A ticket got you free marginal coffee, orange juice which neither of us drank, a bagel or 2 Eggo waffles. There was butter, peanut butter and jelly and syrup to dress them up. Fruit was a pay item.
The atmosphere in a hostel is so appealing. There are people from all over the globe passing through, living more simply, not carrying much in the way of baggage, intersecting and meeting. Although predominantly young people, much to my surprise, there were travelers on the not so young side as well. Most were Camille's age, but there were also families staying, too.
The land the Fisherman's Wharf Hostel sits on, was once owned by 3 different countries, Mexico, Spain and the USA. It was 'claimed' by the US government when California entered the Union in 1848, and set aside for military use, but not developed. When no development occurred, wealthier San Franciscans divvied up the land and built waterfront homes on it. Not such a smart idea in the long run. Eventually the military finally made a move to develop the land. Barracks were built to house soldiers. The waterfront houses were confiscated and became officers houses. Fort Mason housed soldiers from the Civil War era, through the end of WWII finally, becoming  military headquarters of the US Army on the West Coast and the Port of Embarkation until mid 1960s. Today, the military still uses some of the houses, but the majority of the land is part of the first urban national park, the Golden Gate Nationals Recreation Area. Some of the buildings, like the hostel, are in use today, many others are under renovation and some appear to be still waiting for a sprucing up. The history alone made it worth staying at. I fell asleep wondering who had slept here and when and if they survived their military experience. 
The two pictures of the outside of the hostel and the cafe are taken from the hostel's web site, as my camera ate the ones I had taken like it.

The walls emanate history, even in the cafe, which I heard was at one point an infirmary. We could imagine soldiers wandering, wheeling and being wheeled around in white gowns, and much more.
This would have been the Port of Embarkation for supplies and military personnel after the attack at Pearl Harbor. That in itself is some chilling history to contemplate.

San Francisco is best seen by wearing layers. The morning started out overcast and chilly, with the sun burning through sometime around noon, which warms things up considerably but not completely. We walked along the piers, did some sketching, ambled along some more, rested again walked into different shops. Knowing that we had to pack everything we had or would have for a flight back, made it easier to resist buying something just because we like it. These star lights were very tempting though. The picture is a reminder of resisting the urge.

My biggest challenge during the day is the place between standing and sitting. Walking is not easy, but slowing down is a big help, just not an easy concept for me to embrace. It's amazing how much pain can help facilitate change! We made our way to Chinatown and had a HUGE late lunch at Z & N restaurant. It was a hopping place and we had to wait a few minutes to get a seat. It was good in the way that Chinese food is good, and Italian for that matter. Predictable, starchy, soupy, spicy if you want it that way.

The best thing about being in Chinatown is the area itself. All kinds of unusual things to see and wonder about. Like what to do with fowl feet? Food from other parts of the world can be sooo exotic! We saw black chicken, which has black meat, skin and bones (and snow white feathers before it gets undressed for the Chinese market!) The Silkie chicken (wu gu ji) is considered a super food, Chinese medicine, antioxidant, a cure for what ails you. Not that we have had it, but it was readily available here and something on our "To Try" list. I don't know about the fowl feet. Will have to look into that one.

Visually, San Francisco has much to keep the eye entertained, as well as the sense of smell. Between the restaurants, allies, masses of people, gardens, ocean and buildings caked in historical dirt, just about any cloud of some kind of smell can be walked into. We were interested in the textures around us as well and brought some materials to do rubbings with. We often fought the wind, and tried to avoid the of traffic, people and otherwise.

I sat in Washington Park while Camille sketched. Same at Coit Tower. It was a lovely day for soaking in the rays.

Dinner was a light affair after such a HUGE lunch in Chinatown. There comes a time when getting fed is more than about food.















No comments:

Post a Comment